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MAKE A MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR YOUR LATHE
MAKE A MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR YOUR LATHE
MAKE A MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR YOUR LATHE
MAKE A MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR YOUR LATHE
MAKE A MILLING ATTACHMENT FOR YOUR LATHE
If you're a model engineer or a machinist then the magazine Projects In Metal is familiar to you. If not it should be. Projects In Metal is a spinoff of The Home Shop Machinist, the authority on machining and the like.
This Featured Project from "Metalworking Four" is just one of the 56 articles you'll get with the book from the magazine "Projects in Metal". Published in 1994 and 1995, "Projects in Metal" became "Machinist's Workshop". Without a lack of articles on machining, "Projects in Metal" was launched in January 1988 and was met with immediate success.
Like many others, I have had the dream of building my own machine tools. If it were not for the expense of the commercially made ones, then it would be for the absolute pleasure of working with the materials to make them.
I'm sure you've heard of the combination tools, especially the ones that deal with woodworking. The idea is a good one, a little time-consuming, perhaps, for changeovers, but for the part-timer and reasons due to space or expense, such tools would certainly have a place in the workshop.
It's no secret that after purchasing your first machine tool (of course I bet it's a metal lathe),you can greatly enhance the calibre of your work by making many of your own jigs, fixtures and specialized accessories that readily adapt to it.
The limits, I'm sure, can be exceeded only by one's imagination and ingenuity.
You're going to find entirely new articles published nowhere else but Machinist's Workshop. You haven't seen the projects, but you probably know the names. Harold Mason, Philip Duclos, Robert Hedin, Guy Lautard, Bill Davidson, Bob Washburn, Ed Dubosky, Dick Torgerson, Steve Acker, and Deene Johnson just to name a few.
Here each author introduces their helpful and fun projects.
Then it must be transferred to the general purpose mill, and trued again to a time-consuming setup so a fraction of an ounce of material can be removed to form a hex, slot a head, drill a hole or mill a flat on a round.
Not much power is needed, so why not mount a lightweight milling tool right on the compound rest?
After the operations are performed, the part can be cut off completely finished. The cross-feed andlongitudinal travel of the lathe carriage will be the coordinate motions. That's all that's needed to make it work. If the quill components are precisely made, it can be a very useful, time-saving tool.
A Shop-Built Taper Attachment For your Lathe
A simple upgrade for your Atlas 6" lathe (and easy to make) is a taper turning attachment.
With this attachment, you can convert from taper turning to straight turning and threading almost instantly.
When making arbors for the lathe or the mill, the taper turning attachment makes the project go faster and easier by eliminating tailstock setover (trial and error), and realignment of the tailstock for straight turning which is another tedious job.
The design shown allows 6" travel of the carriage. It should be apparent that the design could be stretched for longer carriage travel and also scaled up for Atlas 12" lathe and others.
Almost every workpiece or fixture clamped to the table of a milling machine, milling center, or jig-borer must be aligned to the machine axis and located in relation to the machine measuring system. This alignment and location is accomplished by using the measuring tools and methods described in the following text.
The skills and procedures out-lined will provide the toolmaker/machinist/ programmer with an important foundation, assuring every operation will be completed in its correct location and alignment.
The understanding and refinement of the skills involved using the indicator and edge finder effectively are essential in the production of precision components, regardless of the latest advancements in today's machine technology.
Plus more projects involving techniques and making lathe accessories.
Adapting a Palmgren Drill Press Vise
Modifications to the Sherline Mill
for the Sherline Mill and Lathe
Winding a Coil for a Magnetic Chuck
Modifications to the Atlas 6" Lathe
Make a Thread Dial for Your Lathe
A Milling Machine Vertical Power Feed
Make a Milling Machine Power Feed
A recent project of mine required many long and very slow longitudinal passes. I kept thinking of how nice it would be to have a power feed. While making these slow cuts, it was easy to be convinced that one is really very necessary.
A look into the catalogs at the price of commercial power feeds eliminated that option. This article is the outcome. I considered several motors including a 1/4" electric drill; however, battery-powered screwdrivers have the slow speed and torque needed.
My shop is small, so a 90° drive would be needed. I made several attempts before I got one to work the way I wanted.
An Inexpensive Power Feed for your Mill/Drill
When I purchased my RF-30 mill/drill, a lower price was more appealing than power feed on the table. In the back of my mind, I figured that someday I might add this option.
The wiper motor, avail-able from auto salvage yards for about $15, is a permanent magnet DC motor with separate brushes for high and low speed. This motor has an attached gearbox with a worm gear on the end of the armature shaft driving a plastic compound gear train to give an overall speed reduction of 43:1.
With the wiper mechanism stripped from the drive shaft, a variable DC voltage was applied to the motor. At several volts the motor turned less than 10 rpm, while at slightly over 20 volts, 100 rpm could be obtained.
This corresponds to a speed range of 1" to 10" per minutes if the motor were coupled 1:1 to the mill handwheel (1 rpm = 0.1 inch/min.). The motor appeared to develop ample torque as it could not be stalled by hand in this speed range.
Pantographs vary widely in size and special application. If its function is to engrave a very narrow and shallow groove forming only a few words in a piece of brass flat stock, a panto-graph can weigh as little as a few pounds.
This one is easy to build because the power supply right down to the cutter is a Dremel tool with a flexible shaft that eliminates any vibration or resonance problem. Expensive individual lettering guides are used by commercial pantographs and they are prearranged like toy soldiers in a channel to spell out a word.
This instrument uses single plastic templates. Each one contains all the letters and figures and they can be purchased at art or drafting supply stores for about $5 in a variety of styles and sizes.
By changing the position of the stylus arm, this machine will reduce the figure size by 1/2 or 1/3, providing flexibility. Engraving can be done on very thin material without distortion as caused by the impact of metal stamping.
How to Build an End Mill Sharpening Jig
"Ho-Hum, another end mill sharpening jig," that is the reaction to be expected from any longtime reader of the Village Press publications. Nevertheless, when ideas and evolution develop an inexpensive, better "mouse trap," the temptation to pass it along becomes overwhelming.
The firstborn of the evolution were the fraternal twin rectangular aluminum blocks with holes through the centers. These were made years ago from an article I believe was in Live Steam.
They were to hold end mills for sharpening, and were to be held in a vise clamped at an angle on a milling machine table with a shim fixed to the bed of the vise to tilt the block.
While the whole arrangement provided a well-sharpened cutter, the setup, indexing, and clamping and unclamping in the vise were time-consuming and
This jig will hold an end mill to sharpen the end of a two- or four-lip, right- or left-hand cutter. It will not help you sharpen the flutes. The jig was made with nothing in mind but sharpening end mills. However, since building it, necessity and some imagination have proven it most useful for other jobs, which will be discussed later.
We're not done yet! Here's some more!
Spindle Clamps for a Mill/Drill
A Poor Man's Electronic Edge Finder
Universal Drill Press Hold-down
An Elegant Long Reach Thickness Caliper
A 6" Capacity Precision Height Gage
A Hole Punch for Thin Material
A Machinery Oil Gun for Under $10
Three Ideas for a More Efficient Shop
Tap Wrench Guide with Depth Gage
Making a Stand for Better Pictures
Any one of these projects is worth the small cost of the book! If you're just learning about machining or you're an old pro this book has the information you need and it belongs in your head. Now's your chance to get ahead - don't miss it!
8-1/2 X 11" Hardcover, 262 pages, profusely illustrated with photographs and working drawings.
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